Upsalite® C101

• Cosmetic grade Upsalite® (Figure 1) is a fine white powder consisting of amorphous, anhydrous and porous magnesium carbonate with residuals of crystalline magnesium oxide.

Figure 1:  Cosmetic grade Upsalite powder

Figure 2 : Scanning electron microscopic (SEM) images of Upsalite showing different size irregular shaped par ticles (left) and the close-up structure (right) of Upsalite.

• Upsalite is a porous material with a narrow peak pore size distribution in the lower range of the mesoporous scale (2–6 nm).
• Cosmetic grade Upsalite is milled to a fine powder with a Dv50 particle size around 5 μm (Figure 3) and has a large pore volume, from 0.4 to 0.6 cm3/g and a surface area (BET) of at least 150 m2/g (Figure 4).
• Cosmetic grade Upsalite is not a nanomaterial but contains numerous nano-sized pores resulting in a unique absorption capacity.

Figure 3 : Graph showing the par ticle size distribution of Cosmetic grade Upsalite as compared to other cosmetic powders .

Figure 4: Typical pore width distribution and cumulative pore volume of Upsalite C101 grade. Cosmetic grade Upsalite is not a nanomaterial but contains numerous nano sized pores.

• Upsalite can take up more than 1 g oil per g material and, in contrast to many other oil-absorbing materials that bind oil on the surface, Upsalite is absorbing the oil within the pores, thereby maintaining the dry and non-greasy feeling, even after oil uptake (Figure 5 and 6).

Figure 5 : Photographs of different powders after oil uptake.

Figure 6 : Oil uptake of Upsalite as compared to other absorbing powders.

• This gives the particles the dual effect of both hiding the oil inside the structure while also creating the surface needed for a matte appearance (Figure 7).

Figure 7 : Schematic illustrations and SEM images of Upsalite, porous silica, kaolin, talc and corn starch, before (top), and after (bottom) oil uptake. Note the dry separated particles of Upsalite even after 0.75 g/g uptake as compared to the oily appearance of the other cosmetic powders after oil uptake.

• In contrast to many other porous materials, Upsalite can absorb both oil and water without any additional modification or surface treatment and has the ability to take up water even if it has absorbed oil and vice versa (Figure 8).

Figure 8 : Cosmetic grade Upsalite maintains the capacity to take up oil even af ter water uptake and can also absorb moisture when loaded with up to 0.5 g oil/g powder. Note that wt% moisture absorption equals to % moisture of total weight.

• This capacity is an advantage since Upsalite can absorb both excess oil (sebum) and water (perspiration) without drying out the skin.

Figure 9 : Absorption Speed test of commonly used ingredients

Upsalite® is dermatologically tested. The viability of Reconstructed human epidermal model was > 50%, according to results obtained from in vitro EpiDermTM Skin Irritation Test (EPI-200- SIT). Thus, Upsalite® is classified as: NI (Not Irritant)/not required classification (External study performed under GLP and GCP at QACS Ltd laboratory).

A human repeated insult patch test (HRIPT) on 50 volunteers showed no dermal sensitization potential of 100% Upsalite® applied topically on the skin. None (0%) of the 50 volunteers exhibited any irritant reaction, erythema, dryness or oedema; neither before the first application, during the induction period, nor after the challenge phase according to the scale used for the interpretation of the results (external results from QACS Ltd).