Enhanced TDS
Knowde-enriched technical product data sheet
Identification & Functionality
- Carrier
- INCI Name
- Ingredient Origin
- Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
- EINECS No.
- 231-791-2, 207-997-3
- Technologies
- Product Families
- Origin
- Propanediol - Vegetable
- Aqua - Mineral
- Sphingomonas Ferment Extract - Bacterial
Features & Benefits
- Benefit Claims
- Labeling Claims
- Product Background
SKIN & EMOTIONAL NEEDS OF SILVER GENERATION
According to demographic studies, 2020 will be a turning point: silver generation will outnumber children under age 5 (He et al., 2016). The rise of the silver generation reflects human effort to increase longevity and health. In the same time, mature women’s expectations have changed: they assume their age and its visible signs as well as they are more and more aware of the importance of an emotional wellbeing. From these trends a new dermo-cosmetic concept emerged: positive aging, which focuses on wellness to maintien health.
Many women attach self esteem to their body image which is associated with beauty, femininity and youth. Besides well-known deleterious effect of aging on physiological processes (formation of senescent « zombie cells » and spread of senescence, matrisome alteration) (Scudellari, 2017; FreitasRodriguez et al., 2017), aging has a negative effect on mood and self-esteem (Pearlman, 1993).
As a pioneer in the field of positive aging, GREENTECH developed HEBELYS®, an advanced biotechnological active ingredient, designed using a psychobiological approach. HEBELYS® specifically addresses skin and emotional needs of the silver generation women and supports women after the age of 50, acting like a guardian of their golden age.
Actions
- Mechanisms Prevents & Reduces Senescent « Zombie Cells » Rejuvenates Dermal Matrisome & Dermis Integrity
- Sublimates Wrinkles Texture Suppleness
- Awakes Skin Radiance Freshness & Evenness
- Uplifts Self-Esteem & Mood
Molecules
- Polar Lipids
Sourcing
- Sphingomonas hydrophobicum golden extremophilic microorganism
Applications & Uses
- Skin Care Applications
- Cosmetic Use
- Positive Aging Skin Care
- Premium Daily Skin Care
- Mature / Silver Generation Skin Care
- Preventive Care For Women Aged 50+
- Holistic Anti-Wrinkle Skin Care
- Formulations
- Concentration for use: 1%
- pH for use: 4.0 - 8.0
- Caution for use: Add to emulsions, at the end of the preparation process under 40 °C.
- Formulation guidelines and stability studies available on demand
Properties
- Physical Form
- Odor
- Characteristic
- Appearance
- Liquid
- Soluble in
- Water, Propanediol, 10% in water
- Typical Properties
Value Units Test Method / Conditions Natural Content 1 % - Natural Origin concentration 100 % - - Physico-Chemical Properties
Value Units Test Method / Conditions Dry Matter 1.0 - 2.0 % GT006 Refraction Index 1.425 - 1.445 - GT007 - Quantifications
Value Units Test Method / Conditions Polar lipids (HPTLC) Presence - GT375 Specific Gravity 1.030 - 1.080 - GT008 Water Content max. 10.0 % GT022 - Microbiological Values
Value Units Test Method / Conditions Detection of Enterobacteria Absence - ISO 18415 Enumeration of Mesophilic Aerobic Bacteria max. 100 ufc/mL - cfu/mL ISO 21149 Enumeration of Yeasts and Molds max. 100 ufc/mL - cfu/mL ISO 16212
Regulatory & Compliance
- Certifications & Compliance
- REACH Status
INCI Concentration REACH Status Propanediol 88.0 - 99.0 % Propanediol registered
n°01-2119489383-28Aqua <= 10,0 % Water exempted annex IV Sphingomonas Ferment Extract 1.0 - 2.0 % Exempt: < 1 ton/year (dry matter)
Technical Details & Test Data
- Aging Impacts
Initiation:
- Aging/Exposome-induced signaling pathways: p21 or p16
SENESCENT STATE = ZOMBIE CELLS:
- Damaged aged cells that stay alive...
But don’t work anymore! - Aged skin in vivo : 20-60% of «zombie fibroblasts».
SPREAD TO OTHER CELLS
- Zombie cells» produce SASP* including inflammatory factors poisoning nearby cells and thus accelerating skin aging.
DERMAL MATRISOME
Proteins related to the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM).
- Structural proteins
- Adhesion proteins
- Proteoglycans
AGING: Glycation,aggregation, cross-linking - A «young» matrix has a rejuvenating effect on zombie cells.
TO AGE WELL, KILL ZOMBIE CELLS !
- Proven Efficacy - In Tubo/Vitro Test
HEBELYS® PROMOTES A HEALTHIER & REJUVENATING CELLULAR ENVIRONMENT
REJUVENATES DERMAL MATRISOME
On aged 3D full-thickness skin model, with HEBELYS® (0.1%) or retinoic acid (100nM) during 42 days. Results normalized by the total dermal area. *p<0.05 vs control ; ***p<0.001 vs control
STRUCTURAL PROTEIN
Neocollagen I synthesis (+6%)
Collagen I is the most abundant structural protein of dermal extracellular matrix and is related to skin resistance.
ADHESION PROTEINS
Fibrillin expression (+22%***)
Fibrillin allows the adhesion of ECM components and plays a key role in the production of cytokines and growth factors.
PROTEOGLYCANS
Versican expression (+7%*)
Versican is linked to elastic fibers and promotes ECM organization. It has a key role is skin visco- elasticity.
- Clinical Study - In Vivo
DESIGN
Double blind, open, intra-individual study. 24 silver generation women (60-70 yo).
Gel with HEBELYS® 1% vs placebo. Twice applications per day during 56 days. Evaluations at D0 and D56.
Instrumental evaluations: Fringe projection: wrinkles, isotropy ; Cutometer®: suppleness
Global visual effect on skin appearance standardized full face picture by VISIA®HEBELYS® offers a visible sublimating effect on mature skin
- Emotions
- Cognitive Process
- Physiological Changes
Efficacy evaluation on 2 cognitive impacts of aging
2 SCIENTIFICALLY RECOGNIZED PSYCHOLOGICAL TESTS
SELF-ESTEEM
ROSENBERG TEST (ROSENBERG 1965)+10.5%*** MOOD STATE
PROFILE OF MOOD STATE (POMS) (MC NAIR 1971)+9%** **p<0.01; ***p<0.001 D56 vs D0
Safety & Health
- Toxicological Tests
Tests Method Tested Concentration Results Skin Irritation Patch Test 2 % Very good skin compatibi Mutagenicity Test Ames test Product tested at 7 dilutions Not mutagenic Sensitization HRIPT 2 % Very good skin compatibility,Not
sensitizingEye Irritation Het cam 2 % Pratically non irritant Phototoxicity 3T3 cells Product tested at 8 dilutions Not phototoxic
Storage & Handling
- Shelf Life
- 24 months
- Storage
15 / +25°C
Keep in the original packaging, without opening, in the recommended storage conditions.
Advice before use : Agitation