Enhanced TDS
Knowde-enriched technical product data sheet
Identification & Functionality
- Carrier
- INCI Name
- Ingredient Origin
- Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
- EINECS No.
- 231-791-2, 207-997-3
- Technologies
- Product Families
- Efficacy Origin
Based on a bibliographic selection of plant extracts, a biological screening on specific targets allowed GREENTECH Research to identify the berries of Rhodomyrtus tomentosa.
This plant presents potent anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-microbial properties due to its content in:
• Acylphloroglucinols (rhodomyrtone and derivatives)
• Polyphenols (piceatannol and derivatives)
• Organic acidsPiceatannol
Rhodomyrtone
Features & Benefits
- Benefit Claims
- Labeling Claims
- Product Background
Problem skins gather oily, acne-prone and imperfection-prone skins. In the 12-24 age group, up to 85% of the population is affected. In addition of this teenager issue, adult skin also suffers more and more from these imperfections caused by hormones, but also by pollution, stress or nutrition: excess and oxidation of sebum, multiplication of Propionibacterium (cutibacterium) acnes, hyperkeratinization and inflammation give to the skin a shiny appearance, a thick grain, a complexion blurred by redness and marks. The face loses clearness, freshness and the psychological feeling can be impacted in accentuated cases. Moreover these components are linked and acne phenomenon behaves like a vicious circle, each component increasing the other one.
It is therefore a chronic and multifactorial pathophysiology requiring a complete action on all identified targets to achieve the balance of healthy and clear skin.- Action
- Prevents hyperseborrhea
- Limits P. acnes proliferation
- Reduces inflammation
- Promotes moisturization and radiance
- Cosmetic Benefits
The skin is less oily and shiny, the pores are refined and tightened; better moisturized the skin regains radiance and freshness. Skin imperfections, pimples and redness ease, the complexion becomes smooth again
Applications & Uses
- Application Format
- Hair Care Applications
- Skin Care Applications
- Cosmetic Applications
- Oily and combined skin care
- Corrective products
- Make-up removers and cleansers
- Mattifying care
- Sensitive and reactive skin formulas
- Oily hair care
- Formulations
Concentration for use: 0.5 -2 %
Use pH: 4.0 - 6.5
Caution for use: Add to emulsions, at the end of the preparation process, either cold or at 35-40 °C, during cooling.
Properties
- Physical Form
- Appearance
- Liquid
- Soluble in
- Water (10%), Glycols (10%)
- Typical Properties
Value Units Test Method / Conditions Natural Content 78 % - Natural Origin Content 100 % -
Regulatory & Compliance
- Certifications & Compliance
- REACH Status
INCI Concentration REACH Status Propanediol 82 - 86 % Propanediol registered
n°01-2119489383-28Aqua ≤ 10 % Water exempted annex IV Rhodomyrtus Tomentosa Fruit Extract 4 - 6 % Exempt: < 1 ton/year (dry matter)
Technical Details & Test Data
- Test Data
ACNILYS® is a multifunctional active that acts on pathways involved in oily skin disorders and especially acne.
- Proven Efficacy - In Vitro Test
1. ACNILYS® prevents hyperseborrhea
1.1 ACNILYS® REGULATES SEBUM PRODUCTION
On PCi-Sebocytes derived from human iPSC (induced pluripotent stem cells) (n=3),
lipidogenesis induced at D7 by testosterone (10μM). Multiple treatment with ACNILYS® at D7, D8 and D9 and lipid quantification (BODIPY) at D11. * p<0.05.1.2 ACNILYS® INHIBITS 5-α-REDUCTASE ACTIVITY
On PCi-Sebocytes derived from human iPSC (induced pluripotent stem cells) (n=3),
lipidogenesis induced at D7 by testosterone (10μM). Multiple treatment with ACNILYS® at D7, D8 and D9 and DHT quantification (ELISA) at D11. *p<0.05, ** p<0.01.ACNILYS® thus protects from overproduction of sebum, responsible for oily skin appearance.
2. ACNILYS® limits P. acnes proliferation
ACNILYS® 0.25 % -30% ACNILYS® 0.50 % -65%* ACNILYS® 1.00 % -90%* IC50 0.40% On 105 CFU/mL P. acnes culture (n=2), evaluation of proliferation (DO) after 48h of treatment with ACNILYS®. *p<0.05. Propionibacterium acnes subsp. acnes (Phylotypes IA1) isolated from acne lesion in human facial skin
3. ACNILYS® reduces inflammation
3.1 ACNILYS® PROTECTS FROM P. ACNES INDUCED IL-8 RELEASE
On Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes exposed to P. acnes lysate (n=3).
24h pre-treatment with ACNILYS® 0.002% + 24h co-treatment ACNILYS® 0.002% and P. acnes lysate (3.108 CFU). *p<0.05, **p<0.01ACNILYS® diminishes P. acnes proliferation, limiting its deleterious effects, including inflammation
3.2 ACNILYS® LIMITS THE PRODUCTION OF LIPIDIC MEDIATORS OF INFLAMMATION INDUCED BY OXIDIZED SQUALENE
Inflammation is part of the complex biological response of body tissues to harmful stimuli and presents as heat, pain, redness. Inflammation can be classified as either acute or chronic: acute inflammation is the initial response and chronic inflammation corresponds to a prolonged inflammation. This protective response involves immune cells and molecular mediators including lipidic mediators.
MEASUREMENT OF LIPID MEDIATORS
Precursor Lipid mediator Oxidized squalene
(% of induction vs control)Lipid mediator AA PGE2 +59%* -71%*** LXA4 +424%* -93%** DHA RVD2 +122%*** -45%** RVD5 +124%** -67%*** EPA RVE2 +32%* -24%* On co-cultured dendritic cells and normal human epidermal keratinocytes (n=3), with PUFA precursor complementation. 24h pre-treatment with ACNILYS® 0.1% + 3h co-treatment ACNILYS® 0.1% and oxidized squalene (O-SQ). Analysis of lipid mediators by HPLC-MS/MS. *p<0.05, **p<0.01, ***p<0.001.
ACNILYS® prevents from inflammation induced by dysseborrhea
- Clinical Study - In Vivo
- ACNILYS® ACTS ON SEBUM PRODUCTION
Double blind test with 22 female and 20 male (18-35 years-old ), with oily skin and minimum 5 inflammatory lesions. Twice daily application during 28 days of ACNILYS® 2% versus placebo (Two groups of 21 volunteers).
Mean±SEM. Δ% D0 vs D28. ** p < 0.01 vs placebo
Oily skin appearance (Clinical scoring)
ACNILYS® -69%*** Δ% D0 vs D28. *** p < 0.001 vs placebo
ACNILYS® significantly reduces the skin sebum and improves the oily skin appearance.
- ACNILYS® DECREASES INFLAMMATION
ACNILYS® limits inflammatory lesions and redness. - ACNILYS® IMPROVES GLOBAL ASPECT OF SKIN: MOISTURIZATION AND RADIANCE
Mean±SEM, Δ% D0 vs D28, * p < 0.05 vs placebo, ** p < 0.01 vs placebo
ACNILYS® is a multifunctionnal active, which balances oily, acne-prone and blemish skins.
Safety & Health
- Toxicological Tests
Tests Method Tested Concentration Results Eye Irritation Het cam 2 % Pratically non irritant Skin Irritation Patch Test 2 % Very good skin compatibility Sensitization HRIPT 2 % Not sensitizing effect Phototoxicity 3T3 cells Product tested at 8 dilutions Not phototoxic Mutagenicity Test Ames test 5 % Not mutagenic
Storage & Handling
- Storage
Keep in a dark place, in the original packaging, at an ambient temperature between 15 and 25 °C.