iActive™ CSA

Capryloyl Salicylic Acid is an ester form of salicylic acid which is a BHA and it works as an exfoliant. Salicylic acid is also used as to improve skin thickness and collagen production. This ester form is used as a skin conditioning agent that works by enhancing the appearance of damaged skin by removing dead cells, especially dryness as it reduces the flaking and restores the elasticity. Because of this, CSA is used in anti-aging, whitening, anti-acne and anti-wrinkle cosmetic formulations. Additionally, this analog is used as a preservative and has been categorized as an exfoliant, an anti-inflammatory and an antimicrobial. As a keratolytic agent, it exfoliates the skin by causing the cells of the epidermis (upper layer of skin) to shed more easily, making room for new cell growth. Higher concentrations (8-12%) of topically applied CSA can effectively remove warts. Studies have documented concentrations as low as 2% to improve skin thickness, collagen production, wrinkling, roughness and hyperpigmentation over a time period of just 6 months. A study showed a significant improvement in wrinkles in 41% of the subjects who regularly used a CSA peel, and a substantial lightening of hyperpigmentation in 46% of the CSA users (compared to only 31% and 34%, respectively, for those who used glycolic peels). Unlike alpha hydroxyl acids, which are water soluble, beta hydroxyl acids (and its esters) are lipid (oil) soluble. This means that they not only exfoliate the upper layer of skin, but also penetrate deep through the epidermis to exfoliate the dead skin cells and excess oil built up in the pores. For this reason, CSA acid is frequently used to treat blackheads, whiteheads and acne. Yet its keratolytic ability is not the only reason for why it is so often administered to treat blemishes and breakouts. This ingredient also functions as both an antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory agent, making it an ideal anti-acne ingredient. While many other exfoliants (i.e. AHA’s) often irritate the skin, salicylic acid does just the opposite by reducing inflammation.